Remove green leaves from the wild leeks and roughly chop greens and set aside, then thinly slice the ramp bulbs and pink stems.
Sweat the bulbs, onion, pepper, and salt in oil in a large pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 6-8 minutes.
Add reisling wine and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, until all liquid is gone, then add broth.
Simmer 20 minutes until onions are soft. Stir in greens and boil for one minute.
Puree soup in a blender, in batches, until very smooth.
Return soup to pot and reheat. Stir in cheese and butter with a whisk until smooth. Serve in warm bowls and garnish with creme fraiche.
Garnish each bowl with a fresh wild leek and serve immediately.
Yield: 6 portions